October 6, 2004
Today, October 6, is the day when, two years ago, I began to surf at Roaring Beach daily. Not that everyday has seen the water as benign as in the photo. Nor has it always been easy to get into a wet suit when a southerly is howling or when I had the flu this [...]
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June 6, 2004
Six hundred and six days. Somewhere in the middle of last week, bobbing alone amongst the waves, I passed the half way mark of “The Swim”. Whether seen as a ritualistic milestone or a ritual turned mill stone around my neck, there is an element of satisfaction for having stuck with it so far. Half [...]
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